Life Lessons: My First Solo Vacation

I’ve traveled solo numerous times.  Typically, those were business trips in which I was in and out of the city so quickly that I didn’t have time for anything except the business I was there to conduct.   I had never really considered going on a vacation by myself.   I don’t know why.  However, when a suggestion was made that I visit  Sweden versus sitting up in the house in Saudi Arabia alone for the next three weeks while my husband Roland was out of town, I let it swirl around for a minute.  Then, the next thing I know I was booking a flight to Stockholm and looking for an apartment that was available for 10 days, starting  the following day.  Argh!!!  I couldn’t believe I was doing it.  It was exciting.

I arrived in Stockholm without any problems, took the express train into town and got settled in the apartment.  Then all of a sudden, I felt out of my comfort zone.  I didn’t understand why, since I had been to Stockholm numerous times, and at one point had actually lived there.  However, I wasn’t deterred.  I put on something cute and my comfortable, ugly-ass sandals and hit the streets.  However, I had forgotten that on Sundays most stores are closed and the ones that are open, close early.  So, when I found an open grocery store, I stocked up on the essentials I’d need for the week, and went back to the apartment to make a plan for the next day.

See…that’s the secret.  You have to have a plan.  Know what you want to see.  Even if you just want to meander around, know where you want to go.  This will give you a sense of purpose.  So every day, I made a plan to do something.  I visited every site I wanted, without compromise.  I left the apartment when I wanted.  I came back when I wanted.  I toured subway stations, I visited their world heritage site, and it was all on my terms.  It was awesome.

Another trick I did was to not view it as a foreign city.  I viewed it as if I were just hanging out, like I’d do at home.  And, that’s really how we do it.  Most people run their errands around the city they live in, alone, without giving it a second thought.

So, what did I learn about myself during this vacation?  I learned that I stayed in the background a lot when it came to interacting with the locals; if I were unsure, I’d push Roland out front to take care of it.  In “real life” I’m not this person.  I’m outgoing and not afraid of people.  However, I didn’t realize that I actually became shy and somewhat timid when I traveled.  I love that I discovered that, so I could change it. Now, I don’t do that anymore

Even though I prefer to have a partner-in-crime, I’d absolutely do a solo trip again.  In fact, I enjoyed it so much, that what started out as a 10 day vacation turned into a 2 week getaway.

Having Fun During My Solo Trip: Me on Lions In Kungsträdgården

 

Video: Stockholm Candy Stores

Everyone who knows me know that when I go to Stockholm, I go on a sugar binge.  Stockholm’s candy stores are like no other.  And, it’s no secret that I’m addicted.  I don’t try to hide; I wallow in it.  :D   Following is a video of my favorite GodisCenter (candy store) located in Hötorget metro station.  Check out all that yummy candy.

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5 Things I Love About Stockholm

Stockholm is the first European city that I visited.  In fact, I got my first passport, 15 years ago, in order to take that trip.  I love this city.  It’s one of my favorite European capitals.  There are quite a few reasons why I love Stockholm, and why I keep wanting to come back.  I’ve decided to share  just a few of them.  In no particular order is a list of 5 of my favorite things that I love about Stockholm.   It’s no wonder the reason that brought me to Sweden in the first place, makes my top 5 list of things I love about Stockholm.

The men are mostly cute and in good physical shape.  This is NOT a criterion for me to love a city.  I’m a married woman. LOL But, not a dead one, so, having good eye candy to look at while spending time on the Tunnelbana (Metro), grabbing some coffee or while out having drinks is an added bonus.  The men also seem to have a greater sense of fashion than the women.  It’s almost as if they’re peacocks showing their feathers.  What else can explain the red pants? (BTW:  These guys didn’t know each other)  :)

Guys in Red Pants

They speak English.  This is huge.  Don’t underestimate its ability to ease you into a place.  Some will say that you should always know a few phrases in the local language.  And, I agree.  However, Stockholm is one of those cities in which I find I get better reception and service when I speak “American” right off the bat.  When I do this, I find all my transactions go smoothly.  It’s almost as if I’m forgiven for being a foreigner.  So, if you want to appear courteous you could ask in English, “Do you speak English?” and you will get the standard reply, “Of Course.”

*  The Public Transportation System.   Sweden’s transportation system really cannot be beat.  This system winds its way up and down into the most obscure of locations throughout out Sweden, and conveniently connect to T-Centralen (the main subway/train station in Stockholm).  You’re almost always no more than a 5 minute walk from a metro station when in the city center.  Your pass for the Tunnelbana works for the buses as well.  Unless you’re going into the outlying areas, you will probably never need to get on the bus, and will use the Tunnelbana exclusively.

Fridhemsplan – People Walking with Train

* Simply Put: It’s Beautiful.  Stockholm is set on a series of 14 islands, connected by 57 bridges.  A third of its land is dedicated to green spaces and parks. Its proximity to water, beautiful buildings and lots of green space makes Stockholm one of Europe’s most beautiful capitals.  The architecture is  a mix of 19th century elegance with simple forms, and 20th century functionalism, and it all works together.  The colors of the buildings are vibrant and pleasing; such as in this photo of Jakobs Kyrka  in Kungsträgården.

Jakobs Kyrka in Kungsträgården

Sveriges Riksdag (Swedish Parliament Building)

* The Candy Stores There I’ve said it.  I love the GodisCenters, and my favorite candy store is in Hötorget  Metro station.   All over Stockholm there are candy stores.  And they all serve candy packaged and in bulk.  You walk through the door, grab a big plastic spoon and a bag.  I don’t know what it is.  I’ve been in similar “candy” stores in other cities, but the ones in Sweden are the best.  My favs are the chewy caramel Rollo’s in the red and gold wrapping, the sweet and sour pacifiers, the chocolate covered raisins, and the chocolate covered marshmallows.  I usually team these up with some, “I wonder how these taste?” samples.

 

Stockholm’s World Heritage Site: Skogskyrkogården

Try saying “Skogskyrkogården.” Go on, try it. I’ve tried to say it at least 20 times, with my special Swedish speaking friend pronouncing it, all in the hope that I would actually hear the subtle difference between what I’m saying and what he’s saying.  I still don’t think I’m saying it right, “skoogs-kierko-gawrden.”  It’s a good thing that one doesn’t need to know how to say it in order to go there.

Skogskyrkogården, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it one of the few cultural heritage sites from the twentieth century.  Created by Gunnar Asplund and Sigrund Lewerentz between 1914 and 1940, its design has had a great influence on the design of cemeteries all over the world.   Setting a cemetery in natural parkland and without “grave mounds” was unique for the time.  More than 90,000 graves and 5 chapels on over 100 acres make up this sprawling site. The day I decided to visit, the skies were overcast with occasional showers; seemed like the perfect day to visit a cemetery.

In the distance as we made our way down the lime tree lined street that was the entrance, a huge granite cross stood out against the sky.  Erected in 1940, the cross is not meant to depict the usual symbol of the Christian faith, but is a direct representation of the cross that accompanied all death notices at the time. Whatever it representation, its imposing presence seemed to bring about feelings of tranquility and meditation.  The entire cemetery was designed to create this emotional involvement; to enhance the visitor’s experience.

The processional routes leading to the chapels create a suitable mood for mourners. When walking along the beautiful Seven Springs Way, it gets darker and darker, the closer you get to the Chapel of Resurrection.  And, even though you know you’re getting closer it feels like the door to the chapel remains a long way off.  The steps up to the meditation grove gradually taper off as you get near the top so as not to tire the visitor.

Strolling around the landscape and looking at a combination of art, architecture, and nature, I couldn’t help but feel reverence for its natural beauty, serenity, and as a place for deep contemplation.

Skogskyrkogården is located a 15 minute ride on the Metro (aka Tunnelbana) from T-Centralen (The Central Subway/Train station) on the Farsta Strand bound Green Line.  Public tours are available during the summer season, for more information contact the visitors center at +46-8-508-301-58

 

 

Photography: Panorama of Stockholm

Amazing View of Stockholm from Skinnaviks in Södermalm:

Click to Enlarge

Stockholm: Humlegården

Humlegården is a perfect gem of a park in the middle of the exclusive Östermalm district.  It was established by King Johan III in the 16th century but did not open to the public until 1869. The name humle, meaning hop, indicates that hops were one of the major plants grown in the garden and may explain the Swedish affinity for drinking beer. Besides the park delighting the eye, it also kindles the mind as it ishome to the Royal Library.

Today the park is a popular recreational area for locals, hosting a small soccer ground, skateboard ramp, a small basketball court, a dream playground where children can borrow toys from municipal child-care staff, a dog park, and expansive lawns dotted with Oak trees.

Though Humlegården is a only stone’s throw from Stureplan (aka Party Central), its day time atmosphere is relatively quiet, allowing families to hang out, office workers to enjoy lunch, and students to do homework on the grass while basking in the summer sun.  Unlike the centrally located Kungsträdgården, this place isn’t a popular tourist hangout.

However, as the sun starts to set, the park’s relaxed daytime ambiance gives way to its more festive, central surroundings. And, the party starts at Restaurang Humlegården (www.rhumlegarden.se).  Open for the sixth consecutive year, they offer high-quality food, drinks, weather and music seven days a week.  This is a well-heeled, trendy crowd.  Get there early, as reservations are not accepted, this place fills up quick.

Address: Sturegatan / Humlegårdsgatan

T-Bana:  Östermalmstorg

 

 

Photo Tour: Going Around Stockholm

 

During my 6 day visit to Stockholm I took over 900 photos.  I take photos of everything, everywhere.  Sometimes I’m lucky and I get a really good one, sometimes I think it’s gonna be a really good one, and it’s only mediocre.  But, with 900 photos, I’m bound to get a few good ones.

The following photos are the honorable mentions.  The honorable mentions are photos that are not attached to any story, travel article, hotel, or restaurant review already posted on my blog.  They’re just a mish-mash of photos taken here and there.

Stockholm Restaurant Review: Back A Yard

A little slice of Jamaica can be found in Stockholm’s trendy neighborhood of Södermalm in a restaurant called Back A Yard.  The owner and cook, John “Papa Bull” Carol, creates traditional dishes straight from his native Jamaica  The ambiance is cozy and the décor is colorful, with the Rastafarian red, yellow, and green themed throughout.   The name “Back a Yard” is Jamaican slang for “At Home”; which is an accurate description of my experience  The service is relaxed and the mellow reggae music coming from the speakers creates a “chillaxin” vibe throughout the restaurant.

The menu is rife with delectable choices ranging from the national dish of “Ackee and Saltfish” to the vegetarian “Ital Stew”. Of course, there is the requisite Jamaican staple “Jerk Chicken”; “jerk” referring to the spicy flavor of the dish.  However, I decided to try something different, so I ordered the Fried Red Snapper which was smothered in a thyme-scented vegetable sauce, served with red beans and rice, cole slaw and potato salad.

Roland ordered the Ital Stew, “The Rastaman food”, a vegetarian stew made with seasonal vegetables in a base of coconut milk, seasoned with thyme, allspice, onion, garlic, scotch bonnet pepper.

Though it took a little while (about 30 minutes) to get our food, once it arrived it was delicious, and well worth the wait.  The bar is just so-so, as they lack an experienced bartender.  However, who needs a bartender when you can just do as it’s done in Jamaica, order a Red Stripe beer, and call it a day.

Back A Yard, Katarina / Sofia, Folkungagatan 128, 116 30 Stockholm  +46-08-644 94 94

 

 

Hotel Review: Scandic Anglais, Stockholm

Located in the middle of upscale Östermalm, near ‘the happening” square Stureplan, The Scandic Anglais is moderately priced, clean, and trendy.  Situated directly across from the Kungliga Biblioteket (The Royal Library) in Humlegården, a popular recreational area for locals; this hotel is the perfect base from which to start your daily visits around Stockholm.  It’s near major attractions: Gamla Stan, Kungsträdgården, The Royal Palace, and the Tunnelbana (Subway Stop: Östermalmstorg ) is nearby, connecting you to Stockholm’s extensive public transportation network.

We made this hotel our home for our 6 night stay in Stockholm.  Our room was a King room (2 twin beds placed directly beside each other) with a balcony, and a marble tiled bathroom with an extra deep tub.  The espresso colored furniture was modern and attractive.  There was a comfortable chaise lounge that also turned into a sleeper.  The service throughout our stay was without complaint.  Breakfast, which is included in the room rate, had a few organic items, along with fresh squeezed orange juice, and was plentiful. Early into our stay I ran out of battery power  for my computer and had not yet purchased an adapter.  After a few failed attempts in locating one,  we went to the front desk clerk again for help.  And, after finding out that I had a Mac, front desk clerk stated he had a Mac as well, and that I could use his cord to charge my battery.  This was above and beyond the call of duty.  But, this is the level of service I found throughout my entire stay.  Our room was cleaned everyday.  It seemed as soon as we left, when we got back it was clean, even if we had only left for an hour or two.  The bar (Bar101) is a local hangout, which is nice for a change.  Typically you only find fellow travelers in the hotel bar.

The only complaint I have about this hotel is the noise level.  The hotel is located in an area noisy from traffic and nightlife.  At times it feels as if there isn’t any insulation whatsoever, as the noise feels like it’s right outside your window.  The wood flooring is attractive, however, again, the noise level from the floor above can be distracting, and the thin walls allowed me to hear my upstairs neighbors and their sexcapades.  Other than this….I loved this hotel.  And, I would consider staying here again upon my next visit to Stockholm.

I went on a great little walking tour from the hotel.  You can follow my steps here:  Stockholm Walking Tour 1

 

 

 

Stockholm Walking Tour 1

Click to Enlarge Map

Starting at Stureplan (the square on the corner of Kungsgatan and Sturegatan), cross the street and head west down Kungsgatan.  Cross Sveavägan, staying on Kungsgatan, walking past the big blue Konserthuset (Concert House) until you reach Hötorget Square.  Take time to peruse this outdoor market, grab something to eat, and find a spot on the stairs outside Konserthuset like a true local.   Then head back down Kungsgatan for one more block and turn left (south) onto Drottninggatan.

Drottninggatan, running about a mile long, is central Stockholm’s main shopping street.   As you make your way down Drottninggatan, you will come upon Sergels Torg.  Sergels Torg, finished in 1960, became central Stockholm’s main square.  It has two levels. At the top level, cars meet at a busy traffic junction, marked by a glass obelisk that was erected in 1972.  Down the steps is a pedestrian area with an underground shopping centre. Dozens of street performers and musicians entertain the crowd during the Summer.  At Sergels Torg you will also find the huge Kulturhuset (house of culture).  This five-story building houses art exhibitions, Stadsteatern (the city theatre), a few smaller stages for all kinds of performances, a library, shops and a café.

Continue down Drottninggatan until you reach Sveriges riksdag (The Swedish Parliament  building).  You will know you’ve reached it once you’ve crossed the bridge that places you in front of an stone archway.  At this point Drottninggatan becomes Riksgatan. Walk through this archway, and you’re now next to the Royal Palace.  Turn right (east) onto Slottskajen, which runs alongside the palace.  Take Slottskajen to Strömbrom a bridge that will place you across the street from Kungsträdgården.  A short easy detour from this route is to make a right Norrbro (north bridge) and that will take you to the Medieval Museum.  You can back track back to Slottskajen.

Kungsträdgården, a formal royal garden, provides a nice place to relax and meander through.  Continue north, and you will end up on Hamngatan.  Go right (east) on Hamngatan until you reach the intersecting Birger Jarlsgatan where you will find Kungliga Dramatiska Teater (The Royal Dramatic Theatre) on the corner.  Make a left (north) on Birger Jarlsgatan, and it will lead you back to Stureplan; exactly where you started.